Review of the Nashbar CR4 Carbon Road Bike

Since 2004 I have ridden a Motobecane Le Champion SL. At one time it was said to be the lightest production bike on the market, tipping the scale in my size (61 cm) at about 16.5 pounds with pedals. I've logged well over 40,000 miles on it in the past decade. I've replaced the bottom bracket, the wheels, and a number of cables and cassettes, but all the components are ageing.

When the Nashbar CR4 became available at about the same price I paid ten years ago for the Motobecane, I couldn't resist. Here was a chance to try a carbon frame for the price of the components that I would eventually be replacing on my current frame anyway. Then, too, I like the no-nonsense, stealth black design of the CR4. If companies want to advertise on my bike, they should pay me for wearing their labels.

My new CR4 arrived a month ago and I've had a chance to build it up and put about 500 miles on it. My initial intention was to wait for a torque wrench from Amazon before giving all of the bolts a final tightening and taking the bike on the road--but you know how that goes. I tightened stuff as I normally do and everything has been fine . . . but I do recommend using the torque wrench to avoid over-tightening and cracking the carbon.

I'm 6'2" and bought a size 56 cm frame (the largest). I was able to set up the bike so that it fits me perfectly with all of the measurements closely matching those on my current rig, but the frame might be too small for taller riders. The bike weighs about 17 to pounds without pedals so it is a little heavier than my Motobecane. That minor weight difference is explained by the slightly heavier wheelset and  seatpost. Once I swapped out the Shimano RS11 wheels (1800 grams) for some Vuelta Corsa SLR wheels (~1400 grams) that I already owned, the weight of the bike (with pedals and two bottle cages) is hovering around 16.5 pounds.  However, I quite like the Shimano RS11 wheels and don't particularly recommend replacing them. While they are heavier, the rims are true and they seem fast enough.

The bicycle was packaged well and arrived with no damage. Everything is almost exactly as I expected. The only surprise--and a pleasant one--is that the specs on the website list an 11x25 cassette, but my bike arrived with an 11x28. I live in a hilly area, and it is definitely nice to stay in the saddle spinning a high cadence over the small hills and rollers.

The wheelbase of the Nashbar is a slightly shorter 98 cm, compared with 102 cm on the Motobecane. The reach to the hoods and drops is also a little shorter (about 3 cm), which gives me a slightly more erect posture on the bike. This is desirable for comfort on long rides; perhaps less so for time trials or racing. All in all, I'd say this is the most comfortable road bike I have ridden. And if I should want a racing position, I can easily lower the handlebars by changing the stacking of the spacers.

The paintless, matte-black carbon frame is attractive in a decidedly subdued way. There are slight variations in the carbon finish, but the frame is stylish in its refusal to be showy. Reviewers often comment on the shock absorption of carbon fiber frames. Maybe the minor vibrations of chip-and-seal roads are somewhat muted, but bumpy pavement still feels bumpy. The cushiony new handlebar tape and slightly less weight on the bars (because of my more upright position) may contribute more to the comfortable ride than the frame material.

The new Ultegra components and new cables lead to quick shifting. The eleven-speed cassette offers a nice range of gears. I love having the 28 on the steepest of sections (even if I try not to use it). The internal cable routing is aerodynamic and attractive, but I can't yet say how much I like it.

One problem I've already encountered is that my frame arrived with crossed cables in the downtube, leading to slightly "mushy" or imprecise shifting. The way to test for this is to flip the bike over so that it rests on the handlebars and saddle. Then shift into the biggest chainring and the biggest cassette ring and turn the crank arms a few times while also putting a little resistance on the rear tire. Now, put your finger on the exposed cassette shift cable where it passes over the bottom bracket. Without turning the crank arms at all, shift down from the big ring. This releases the tension on the front derailleur cable, but it should have no effect at all on the cassette cable. If you feel a slight movement in the cassette cable, it means that the cables are crossed inside the downtube. To fix that you need to remove the cassette cable, tighten the front derailleur cable, and re-thread the cassette cable. You'll have to "fish" for the end of the cable inside the downtube. To do that, remove the plastic piece near the bottom bracket (through which the end of the cable will eventually pass). This exposes a 1/2" x 1/4" opening into the downtube. Bend the end of a paper clip into a little hook that you can slide into this gap and fish out the cable as you feed it through the frame. You may not snag it on your first try. Be patient.

Some previous reviewers have complained about a creaking bottom bracket. I have not had that problem. In fact, when I first unpacked my new bike, I could see see a bead of grease that had been squeezed out from the threads of the bottom bracket.

The handlebars are a bit narrower and more compact than those on my other two road bikes. No doubt this leads to some savings in weight. There is little affect on performance.

The Prologo saddle is superb. When speaking of road bikes, it is, perhaps an oxymoron to use the phrase "comfortable saddle," but the Prologo is light while still providing a bit of cushioning.

All in all, this is a great light-weight road bike--perfect for long days in the saddle but probably also suitable for racing.

Update -- 7/20/2015: I have now ridden this bike 1700 miles and see no reason to revise any of the opinions expressed in this post. This is a light-weight, high-quality, handsome racing bike that is also comfortable for long days in the saddle. It has only two weaknesses: (1) the wheels are about a pound heavier than I'd like, but they are still excellent training wheels. I use them regularly on my other road bike. (2) The internal cable routing is aerodynamic, but not as precise in shifting or as easy to adjust and fix as external cables. But this is the new fashion and I guess it must be tolerated. It works well enough. So in conclusion, this is a remarkably good value in a racing bike!